Two Nights in Kerry, where everything is beautiful
Two Nights in the West Cork Gourmet Capital of Kinsale, which put the slow into slow food
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Slow Food |
& Two nights in Clare, where the Atlantic beats the shore
Day 1
Arrive at Shannon and collect your car. Set off on the main highway to the
west, stopping in the picture book village of Adare for a quick coffee and a
homemade scone. If you are in need of fortification then Foynes, the
birthplace of Irish Coffee should be your next stop. Otherwise carry on to
Kenmare to check into the Lodge, which is a 5 minute walk from the first pub,
and overlooks the golf course, that runs down to Kenmare Bay.
Ken
mare is a gourmet paradise - Visit Benoit's traditional chocolate shop and see the hand-crafted delicacies take shape.
The Lime Tree - the staff, the decor, the food and wine are fantastic..
Leath Phingin Eile "Superb food, one of best meals ever."
(tripadvisor.com) D'Arcy's Oyster Bar & Grill "Best
meal in Ireland" Mulcahy's "Consistently excellent for quality of food and service"
The Horseshoe "I'd go back tomorrow" Packie's "Absolutely fantastic food and fun atmosphere"
PF McCarthy's, The Purple Heather, O'Donnabhain in Henry Street, - and
quite a few more. According the foodie supremo John McKenna "Manuela
Goeb's bakery 
at The Breadcrumb is one of the best things to have happened to
Kenmare's gourmet central food culture since whenever." and The
Pantry is "A great wee wholefood shop, filled with lovely things and
essential necessities, and with lots of good organic produce from local growers,
such as Billy Clifford, arrayed outside the front window of the shop."
Day 2
The Ring of Kerry is a circular route around the Iveragh Peninsula. It is best to do it in an anti clockwise direction - Killorglin, Glenbeigh,
and onwards. In Fossa turn right just past the Hotel Europe to get the
best German-style charcuterie you can find in Ireland. Armin Weise even
breeds his own German pigs!
Killorglin situated on a hill overlooking the wide and graceful River Laune, a river offering salmon and trout angling. Dominating the landscape to the south are the MacGillycuddys Reeks. It is the location of the famous "Puck Fair" festival.
Jacks Bakery on Lower Bridge Street is a wonderful artisan family run bakery -
pick up a loaf to go with your German ham.
The Bog Village is situated half way between Killorglin and Glenbeigh on the main Ring of Kerry route. It is a must for you to stop off and enjoy a step back in time to the early 18th century to recapture the way life would have been at that time. Peat, or turf as it is usually called in Ireland, is harvested from bogs and is still used as domestic fuel. The village is here to preserve the past for your enjoyment. This is a most worthwhile and historic visit to see the real Kerry life as it was, in the heart of Kerry's bogland. The Bog Village is adjacent to the Red Fox Inn Bar and Restaurant, which is open seven days a week.
Glenbeigh is a popular holiday base nestled at the foot of a well-wooded mountain
an
d close to the head of Dingle Bay. It is dominated by the strange ruin of Wynn's Folly, or Hedley Towers, once home of the Winns, Barons Headley. The Title dated from 1797. Wynn's Folly was burnt down in 1922. The view from 'Wynn's Folly is superb, and provides a breathtaking view of the village and surrounds of Glenbeigh. After Glenbeigh you will pass through Kells Bay where a local shepherd gives demonstrations of working sheep dogs.
Kate and Andrew Cooke's bar and restaurant at 3 Main Street is the destination
for food lovers in Cahirciveen.
From Cahirciveen you can divert to the right and take the car ferry to Knightstown on Valentia Island. Be sure to visit The Slate Quarry, Glanleam Gardens and The Tetrapod Trackway - In 1993 an undergraduate geology student (Iwan Stossel) made the discovery of a lifetime. While examining rocks on the island's coast he came across a rock platform containing a set of ancient animal footprints. The tracks have since been dated to almost 400 million years ago and are regarded as among the earliest footprints known to science, and certainly the oldest known footprints in Europe.
Valentia is an island of unique scenic beauty, tropical vegetation, breathtaking cliffs and magnificent seascapes. The island is an excellent centre for sea angling and diving in unpolluted waters. The bridge was built at Portmagee in 1970. The island, about 11km long by 3km wide is one of the most westerly points of Europe. The surface is bold and rocky, two prominent features being Geokaun Mountain 268 meters on the north and Bray head 180 metres on the south, both are splendid vantage points for the sightseer. The Skellig Experience is located here. This is where the story of the Skelligs is told. The themes include the monastic settlement, the lighthouse, the bird and underwater life.
The Bridge Bar in Portmagee is the perfect place to experience true village life. Great food, great atmosphere and great service has made it the winner of the 2007 Tourist Pub of the Year at the Licensing World Awards and Overall Winner of the 2005 Irish Pubs of Distinction Pub of the Year
Award, serving the best bar food in the locality to hungry visitors.
Head on to Ballinskelligs via St Finans Bay. In Ballinskelligs visit the
Ballinskelligs Chocolate factory for a special treat, and drop by the Cill Rialaig Centre - once a deserted and almost forgotten pre-famine village of thatched stone cottages situated on the Bolus road near Ballinskelligs, it is now an international artists' retreat .
On through Charlie Chaplin's Waterville and Cagerdaniel where, by golden beaches, stands Derrynane House, the ancestral home of Daniel O'Connell, lawyer, politician and statesman. Today some 120 hectares of the lands of Derrynane, together with Derrynane House, make up Derrynane National Historic Park. Plantations and garden walks were laid out in the 18th and 19th centuries, principally north and west of the house. Some features of the demesne are strongly associated with Daniel O'Connell, including the old Summer House.
The main area of the gardens, set inland and to the north of the house, can be reached through a tunnel under the road.
Between Waterville and Derrynane you will see a Neolithic Stone alignment on the ridge above the LHS of the road. Outside Caherdaniel is a ruined Iron Age fort on the RHS.
At Castlecove, some distance to the left off the main road, is Staigue Fort - probably the finest example of a stone fort in Ireland, and is about 2500 years old. It is built of local stone and is almost circular, 27m in diameter. The walls are almost 4m thick at the base, and 2m thick at the top. The north side is still perfect with some of the old coping stones still in position. There are two small chambers in the wall, one on the west side and one on the north side. The stairways are probably the most interesting feature of the fort, and run inside the wall almost to the wall's full height. They lead to narrow platforms on which the fort's defenders stood.
Westcove Shop is situated just off the main Ring of Kerry Road between
Caherdaniel and Castlecove. Here you will find and be able to sample
homemade confectionery, as well as homemade brown soda bread, savoury quiches and scones.
The shop also has a range of unusual jewellery, accessories, bags and
clothing. Just opposite the shop is the bakery - an opportunity to see a farmhouse industry in action!
Through Sneem, but don't go back to Kenmare - follow the Moll's Gap Road for a
tea of Pancakes at The Strawberry Tree. Then back to Kenmare.
Day 3 By way of the Beara Peninsula to Kinsale.
Follow the coast road from Glandore via Drombeg Stone Circle.
This lovely recumbent stone circle is locally known as the Druid's Altar, and is located on the edge of a rocky terrace with fine views to the sea about a mile away. The word Drombeg means 'the small ridge'. Of the original 17 pillars of smooth-sided local sandstone erected in a circle of 9.5m (31ft) in diameter, only 13 remain. To the left of the north-east entrance is a portal stone 2.2m (7ft 2in) high; its opposite is the 1.9m (6ft 10in) long recumbent which has two egg-shaped cup-marks (one with a ring around it). The circle stones have been shaped to slope upwards to the recumbent itself. The midpoint of this stone was set in line with the winter solstice sunset viewed in a conspicuous notch in the distant hills; the alignment is good but not precise.
Clonakilty is a busy market town with fine 19th century mill buildings that now house the town library and County Council offices. Nearby, a small disused Presbyterian Church has been put to service as the post office. See also the fine status of a pikeman. For a town of its size, the Roman Catholic Church is impressive, with fine glass and mosaics. The town centre is the home of the noted street theatre group Craic na Caoillte. The impressive Model Railway Village is absolutely unique.
Etain Hickey's shop is well worth a diversion - find it at 40 Ashe Street as is
Michelle Mitton's Gallery at 28 Pearse Street.
Consider visiting Timoleague, perched at the edge of a long sea inlet this friendly tourist village is dominated by the ruins of a 13th century abbey and also has a Hindu decorated Episcopalian church.
Kinsale, a spectacular location, seasoned liberally with Norman, Spanish and English influence, is Ireland's fine food capital. The medieval town of Kinsale is not just about food. it's also about traditional bars, beautiful buildings, narrow streets, shops and galleries and lots of activities on land and sea. Things to do in Kinsale - Visit Charles Fort - one of the best examples of a star-shaped fort in Europe; Visit James Fort
- a romantic and un-restored fort from 1620.; visit Desmond Castle & the Irish Wine Museum (think Hennessy, Chauteau Barton,
...); visit 12th century St. Multose Church; tour the galleries & many craft shops of Kinsale.
Kinsale is the gourmet capital of Ireland, so wander around the town checking out menus
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Max's Wine Bar 48 Main Street Kinsale, 021 4772443
Fishy Fishy Cafe Guardwell 021 4774453
Crackpots Restaurant, 3 Cork Street Tel: 021 477 2847
Little Skillet Restaurant 021 477-4202
Stay in the heart of the town.
Day 4
Explore Kinsale and then into Cork City and spend the morning exploring
it. You could spend a week exploring the Cork area and still not have seen all the highlights. The bells of Shandon, The English Market, St Finbarre's Cathedral & The Crawford Gallery are a few of the highlights of the city. Blarney Castle, with its eloquent stone is a short drive to the north.
Head to Ballymaloe for lunch in their Cafe - World-renowned, Myrtle Allen is the
Alice Waters of Ireland. Finish the day with a visit to the Old Jameson
Distillery at Midleton, where you can sample the "water of life" and
become a whiskey expert. Return to Kinsale, and maybe experience a tour of
the ghostly sites of the city.
Day 5
Crossing the Blackwater River in Mallow, follow the main road to Limerick, where you could take in both lunch and culture in the Hunt Museum. Carry on by way of Bunratty Castle, where you could learn to bake an apple pie in the Golden Vale Farmhouse, and then through the county town of Ennis to stay right out on the Western Coast
Day 6
Explore The Burren - So many places to eat
and so much to see - Holywell, Ennistymon, or The Holywell
Trattoria, Fanore, In the matchmaking town of Lisdoonvarna The Bridgestone Guide
reckons that Peter and Brigitta Curtin are amongst the most important food
producers on the west coast of Ireland - their smokehouse and Roadside Tavern
are a delight to visit. The Lisdoonvarna waters are sulphurous and chalybeate springs, all of which contain the valuable therapeutic element of iodine. Much of the efficacy of the waters especially the sulphur water is ascribed to their radioactive properties.
D
o not miss out on The Burren Perfumery -
"I like fresh food, so everything in the tearoom is organic – the butter,
the milk, the bread and everything, but it's just really simple nice food."
That's what Sadie Chowen told Betsy Klein, in the book Cottage Industry, when
she was talking about her exceptional perfumery and tearoom. As the afternoon
draws in try mussels or crab cakes in Linanes Lobster Bar in New Quay. And
finish the day with a cornet of periwinkles on the seaside.
Words simply cannot do justice to the Burren, an eerie, peculiar 193-square mile area of ancient seabed that suffered glacial activity during its long history . The Burren, is a bare lunar like landscape of a limestone plateau dotted with stone age forts and megalithic tombs. In the narrow crevices that criss-cross this pavement flourish orchids, gentians and other rare flora, an amazing mix of arctic, alpine, temperate, and tropical vegetation growing side by side. Twenty-two varieties of orchids thrive here, nourished by underground rivers and rich soil. Today we see treeless meadows of limestone karst that forms natural pavement interspersed with lush flora, even in January. Scholars of history can scour the Burren for tombs, chambers, and dolmens (two stones that support a horizontal slab), traces of Stone Age inhabitants. . To the north the Burren is bounded by Galway Bay with the fishing port of Ballyvaughan, a noted centre for oysters, while to the west the Aran Islands stand out against the broad expanse of the Atlantic Ocean. Hidden sites in the Burren include Cahercommaun Stone fort, The Burren Perfumery, Cassidys of Carron - an excellent Pub, Poulnabrone Dolmen and Ailwee Cave
Day 7
Depart Shannon and back to the hurly burly of reality!
The Cost:-
The cost includes 6 nights accommodation with breakfast, service and tax included. It includes all admissions when taken with a driver guide. The accommodation is in some of the best 4* guest houses and out of the ordinary B&Bs, all places to which you will want to return time and again.
To June 14th
With a stick shift self drive car - from EUR475 per person sharing based on two people
